550

The New Balance 550 is a low-top basketball shoe from 1989 that only took off thirty years later and is now one of the most worn white sneakers around. Smooth leather, a large N on the side and a sturdy sole give it a sporty retro look. You see the 550 on women and men alike, usually in white with a single accent colour.

The history of the New Balance 550

New Balance released the 550 in 1989 for basketball, as a low-cut counterpart to the taller 650. It never became a big name on court, and the model soon disappeared from the range.

In 2020 the New York label Aimé Leon Dore pulled the 550 out of the archive for a collaboration with New Balance. That release was so well received that the brand brought the shoe back into its permanent line-up. Dozens of colour schemes followed, including pairs in the colours of American university teams.

Design and materials

The upper of the 550 is made of smooth leather, with perforated panels on the toe and along the sides. The N logo and heel piece often come in their own colour, so even a simple pair has contrast. The collar is lightly padded and sits slightly higher than on an average low-top.

Underneath is a wide, flat rubber cupsole with a tread that still nods to the gym floor. The 550 does not have the modern cushioning found in the brand’s running models: it feels firm and a little stiff when new. After a few wears the leather softens up.

Popular New Balance 550 colorways

Most 550 releases pair white with a second colour. These are the most sought-after pairs on WOOVIN right now:

What is the difference between the New Balance 550 and the Nike Air Force 1?

Both are low leather basketball shoes on a white base, but their shapes differ. The Nike Air Force 1 has a thick sole with Air cushioning and a round, full toe. The 550 is more angular, sits lower on its sole and has more retro details, such as the perforations and the large N. If you want an even slimmer silhouette in the same spirit, take a look at the Nike Dunk too.

How does the New Balance 550 fit?

The New Balance 550 fits true to size, so you can order your usual New Balance size. The toe box is fairly narrow, though, and the sturdy leather gives little at first. Anyone with wide feet is better off half a size up. With narrow or regular feet, your own size usually fits well.

Buying the New Balance 550 at WOOVIN

At WOOVIN you will find the New Balance 550 for women and men, from white-and-grey basics to the Syracuse and UNC college colours. Pick white with grey or green if you want a sneaker that goes with almost everything, and the cream version for a warmer vintage look. Want more cushioning and a thicker sole? Compare the 550 with the New Balance 9060.