Denim Tears
Denim Tears is the clothing label of Tremaine Emory, who has used it since 2019 to tell stories about the African diaspora. Its best-known symbol is the Cotton Wreath: a wreath of cotton flowers that refers to the history of slavery on American cotton plantations. Wearing Denim Tears means wearing streetwear that carries a story.
The history of Denim Tears
Tremaine Emory had been active in fashion and music for years before he started Denim Tears. The brand launched in 2019, the year that marked 400 years since the first enslaved Africans arrived in the English colony of Virginia. From the start, Emory saw the label as a way to make history and identity visible through clothing.
The Cotton Wreath came about after Emory saw a work by Kara Walker showing a wreath made of cotton. He developed the idea into the emblem of his brand. Alongside Denim Tears, Emory was creative director of Supreme from 2022 to 2023, which brought his name to an even wider audience.
What Denim Tears is known for
Denim Tears is best known for its partnership with Levi’s. From 2020 onwards, Levi’s 501 jeans and jackets appeared with the Cotton Wreath as an all-over print, in several washes. Those jeans became the label’s most recognisable pieces and are still released in new colours.
Beyond denim, Emory likes to work with big names. With ASICS he released the GEL-MC Plus in 2021 in ‘Red Clay’ and ‘White Clay’, inspired by the red clay of Georgia where his family comes from. For UGG he designed a 2022 collection with beading and embroidery, including a version of the UGG Tasman with floral motifs referring to his Black Seminole ancestry. Collaborations with Converse, Stüssy and Dior have appeared as well.
Well-known Denim Tears pieces
- Cotton Wreath jeans: the Levi’s 501 with the cotton wreath, the item that made the brand’s name.
- Cotton Wreath sweatpants and shorts: fleece joggers and shorts with the same print.
- Hoodies and sweatshirts: often featuring the wreath or text that refers to Black history and culture.
- T-shirts: graphic prints with photos, words and symbols from the diaspora.
If you like story-driven streetwear, labels such as Gallery Dept. and Rhude are worth a look too, as they also come out of the American streetwear scene. The difference: at Denim Tears there is almost always a specific historical story behind the design.
How does Denim Tears clothing fit?
There is no single rule that applies to every Denim Tears item. The Cotton Wreath jeans are based on the Levi’s 501, so if you know your size in that classic straight leg, you have a good starting point. For sweatpants, hoodies and T-shirts, the fit varies by collection and fabric. Some pieces are cut straight, others deliberately looser. If in doubt, compare the measurements with a garment you already own and like the fit of.
Buy Denim Tears at WOOVIN
On WOOVIN you will find Denim Tears clothing such as Cotton Wreath jeans, sweatpants, shorts, hoodies and T-shirts. When choosing, pay attention to the colour of the wreath and the wash, as these differ per release. Filter by your size to see which pieces are available right now.
